Days 21 & 22 – 2015 Transcontinental Trip – July 6 & 7

By the numbers:

  • 470 miles from Crestview to Ocala to Tampa, Florida– 4745 miles for the trip – time for a service check for Dixie, our car.
  • Skipped the blog yesterday after along day driving.
  • 2 Museums – Air Force Armament Museum at Eglin Air Force Base yesterday. – The Dali Museum in St Petersburg, Florida today.

B-17 nose-resized

Saw another B-17 bomber, as was used by the eighth air force out of England during WW2.  How would you like to have as one of your job duties?

Stick your arm out this hole in the nose of you plane to wipe off snow or frost so you can use your bomb site to make sure you drop your bombs over the intended factory.  Keep in mind that you would be doing this while flying at 30,000 feet, at 40 degrees below zeor, at 250 to 300 miles per hour, and all this while also being shot at by enemy airplanes and flak guns.

Quite a collection of Dali art here.  A collector wanted to donate it to a museum that would promise to keep the collection together and not loan it out to other museums in bits and pieces.  The Museum here agreed to those terms so here is the world’s largest collection of Dali art.

Dali Lincoln art signage-croppedHe was a prolific artist and I won’t even try to comment on his overall work.  One I found interesting was titled:  “Gala Comtemlating the Mediterranean which at Twenty Meters Becomes a Portrait of Abraham Lincoln.”

Dali Lincoln portrait-croppedClose up it looks like a typical Dali from that portion of his career when his paintings were jammed full of many apparently unrelated objects.
But from a distance it looks like a portrait.

Dali RR sign-croppedAlso took this picture.
Had some concerns that at a Dali museum there might a larger and confusing array of choices.

In Tampa for a couple more days.  Probably no blog tomorrow.

Day 20 – 2015 Transcontinental Trip

By the numbers:

  • 267 miles from New Orleans to Crestview, FL –  4275 miles for the trip.
  • Traveled in 4 states:  LA, MS, AL, and FL.  2 new ones for a total of 12 so far on the trip.
  • Spotted one new license plate today:  Our old residence, Washington D.C.  – Only 4 US states left to spot.
  • One new national Park:  The Gulf Islands National Seashore.  We stopped at the Mississippi part of the park.  Explored on the mainland but did not find a boat ride out to the islands.  28 National Park sites for the trip.

My view is that these types of national parks are some of the best examples of the need for a national park service.  As stated in the park film, “These barrier islands have served to protect us from the worst of storms for centuries.  Now it is our turn to protect them.”   The loss of these types of barrier islands, wetlands, and coastal marshes in recent times has contributed much to how destructive hurricanes have been when they come ashore.  Normally these places help absorb the energy of hurricanes and slow their powerful winds.  When the offshore barriers are reduced, the major storms hit the mainlands with greater force and cause greater destruction.

I am felling pretty good at this point about my planning for this trip.  I had a day by day outline of how our trip might go.  Nothing, was set in stone and we have made some day to day adjustments, skipping a few sites and stopping at a few we hadn’t planned on.  With all that as of today we are 1 day ahead of our original plan and 38 miles short of our expected mileage.  Maybe if I need a post retirement job, I could do vacation planning.

Tomorrow and for the next few days we will be in Florida and seeing friends so I may skip a few days on the blog until we are ready to head north on the Eastern Florida Coast on the 10th.

Day 19 – 2015 Transcontinental Trip

By the numbers:

  • 38 miles, around New Orleans – Just past the 4000 mile mark for the trip – about 1 third done.
  • Only one place traveled today – The National World War II Museum.

2015-07-04 12.12.01We had heard the World War II Museum was a must see place to go and we were not disappointed.  Spread out over 4 large buildings it is a pretty amazing collection of the 2015-07-04 11.57.20
vehicles and equipment used in the war, as well as some great displays, movies, and personal testimonies.

First, you ask, why is our nation’s World War II Museum in New Orleans?   Because this was where Andrew Jackson Higgins had his home and his factories.  And who was Andrew Jackson Higgins?  The inventor and producer of variations of the Higgins flat-bottomed landing craft. Higgins landing craftPresident Eisenhower said that Higgins “won the war for us.”  Without boats that could land on open beaches, he explained, “the whole strategy of the war would have to be rethought.”  See this NY Times article.

At one point during the war almost 14,000 of the 15,000 vessels owned by the US Navy had been produced here in New Orleans at Higgins factories.

The major overview movie, Beyond All Boundaries, shown at the museum was quite well done.  Shown in a special theater with a combination of film, raised and lowered actual artifacts, motion devices built into the seats, and even artificial snowfall during the Battle of the Bulge.  I had tears in my eyes at the end and was feeling very proud of my Mom’s and my father’s service in WWII.  Some parts of the exhibits were very detailed and some were more summary.  Not a lot of detail on the parts of war in which my parents served.  Just a short segment on the Italy campaign, Anzio where Mom’s evac hospital came in to back up another hospital that was bombed, on the liberation of Rome, and the campaign in Northern Italy that continued until the war’s end.  In that part of the war army units composed of Japanese Americans and another of African Americans served with high distinction.  I am sure Mom helped care for soldiers from both of these units.

At the end2015-07-04 21.16.30 of the day we discovered that there was to be a fire works display near our hotel over Lake Pontchartrain.  We haven’t been to a live fireworks show for a long time.  It was more fun than expected.

See Peg’s blog for more pics of the fireworks.

Day 18 – 2015 Transcontinental Trip

By the numbers:

  • 50 miles, around New Orleans – 3970 total miles for the trip.
  • highest temp:  93 – “Real Feel” = 105 or more.
  • 3 National Park Sites today:  These were the hardest ones to find yet.  In downtown New Orleans just a block off Bourbon Street you can find almost anything you can imagine (and some things you wish you couldn’t) except any signs or directions to where the little hole in the wall NPS sites were.  We found

Although I am not sure my mother ever said this to me, I am sure some mother somewhere has:  “If you don’t have anything nice to say about someone, don’t say anything at all.”  Good advice.  I am sure many people love visiting New Orleans and find many wonderful things to enjoy here.  Having visited here twice so far, all I can say is I am not one of them.

Outside of town we visited the Chalmette Battlefield and National Cemetery.  The cemetery is a veterans cemetery created in 1864 for Civil War soldiers and with veterans buried there from every war since.  At the battlefield we learned about the battle here in 1814 as part of the war of 1812.  We watched a video with scenes from historical reenactments of the battle.  That history is pretty well summarized by the Song –  “The Battle of New Orleans” – Written by Jimmie Driftwood, a high school history teacher and released in 1959.  Lyrics below – click on album for YouTube of the song

220px-Johnny_Horton_New_Orleans_singleBattle of New Orleans

In 1814 we took a little trip
Along with Colonel Jackson down the mighty Mississip.
We took a little bacon and we took a little beans
And we caught the bloody British in the town of New Orleans.

[Chorus:]
We fired our guns and the British kept a’comin.
There wasn’t nigh as many as there was a while ago.
We fired once more and they began to runnin’ on
Down the Mississippi to the Gulf of Mexico.

We looked down the river and we see’d the British come.
And there must have been a hundred of’em beatin’ on the drum.
They stepped so high and they made the bugles ring.
We stood by our cotton bales and didn’t say a thing.

[Chorus]

Old Hickory said we could take ’em by surprise
If we didn’t fire our muskets ’til we looked ’em in the eye
We held our fire ’til we see’d their faces well.
Then we opened up with squirrel guns and really gave ’em … well

[Chorus]

Yeah, they ran through the briars and they ran through the brambles
And they ran through the bushes where a rabbit couldn’t go.
They ran so fast that the hounds couldn’t catch ’em
Down the Mississippi to the Gulf of Mexico.**

We fired our cannon ’til the barrel melted down.
So we grabbed an alligator and we fought another round.
We filled his head with cannon balls, and powdered his behind
And when we touched the powder off, the gator lost his mind.

[Chorus]

Yeah, they ran through the briars and they ran through the brambles
And they ran through the bushes where a rabbit couldn’t go.
They ran so fast that the hounds couldn’t catch ’em
Down the Mississippi to the Gulf of Mexico.**

 

Almost exactly what we learned at the museum.

Day 17 – 2015 Transcontinental Trip

By the numbers:

  • 290 miles, from Vicksburg, MS to New Orleans via Natchez– 3920 total miles for the trip.
  • highest temp:  93 – Under the idea that it is always good to learn something new every day, we learned something new today.  In response to a comment about the heat and being from Seattle at one of the visitor’s centers we were told we shouldn’t mind the heat here because we would be used to the humidity in Seattle.  I have lived in a few places with high humidity including Iowa and Washington DC, but until today I did not know Seattle was one of them.
  • Traveled through 2 states today:  MS and LA, but no new ones.
  • License plates for 3 new states today:  Rhode Island and Maine. –  That leaves just Vermont, New Hampshire, Connecticut, Hawaii, and D.C to spot for the trip.
  • Three new national park  stamps today for 2 new parks:  Melrose Mansion and the William Johnson House at Natchez National Park, and The Natchez Trace Parkway.  – 24 total park sites for the trip.
  • Elevation number for the day – 11 – more on that below.

The Natchez Trace is another one of those interesting parts of our history about which I knew nothing before.  The Trace is now a parkway which runs all the way from Natchez, Mississippi to Nashville, Tennessee.2015-07-02 12.13.45  It began as a animal and game path 1000’s of years ago, then became a hunting trail, then a bit of a trading trail, but took a more permanent form in the late 17 and early 18 hundreds.  Farmers and traders from the Ohio and upper Mississippi Valley who wanted to sell their goods to people in the more populated Eastern cities would bring their products down the Mississippi on small wooden boat.  After selling their goods there was no inexpensive way back up the river.  Many sold their boats for the wood and then walked back up to the Ohio Valley.  The primary route followed was the Natchez Trace.  It took as long as 30 to 40 days to walk that trail and for a time thousands of people made that trek every year.

We are now in New Orleans and will explore the area for the next couple of days.  Consider that the main part of the city of New Orleans is at 11 feet elevation.  If you have ever been at an ocean beach in even a mild storm, think about how high some of the waves are that come crashing ashore.  Then imagine living in a city where the street is lower than the top of some of those waves.

IMG_2657Here’s my little tidbit of thought related to elevation today.  As I have said before, Louisiana is very flat.  How flat you ask?  Well consider this.  Back in Seattle, a few years ago, I redid part of my back yard in the form of a chess board patio.  The planning, excavation, building and construction was a fun summer-long project.  One thing I learned is that you should never build a patio or driveway perfectly level.  If you do, you will have water related problems.  The minimum recommended slope for such a project is to have a 1/8th inch rise for every foot of length of you patio.  This in necessary to ensure water will run off and not accumulate in puddles in the middle of you patio. Some math:

1/8th inch per foot  equals 1 inch per 8 feet  which equals  660 inches or 55 feet per mile.

Louisiana is 283 miles long from South to North.  So a this same slope would require an elevation of 15,565 feet at the high end.IMG_2658

The highest elevation in the state is actually 535 feet, so Louisiana is 30 times more level than my Chessboard.

Day 16 – 2015 Transcontinental Trip

By the numbers:

  • 21 miles around the battlefield and town of Vicksburg MS – 3630 miles for the trip.
  • highest temp:  about 89 but we are finally getting acclimated so it felt pretty comfortable most of the day.
  • No new states, license plates or parks.

Spent an interesting and relaxing day mostly at the Vicksburg National Military Park

Between my own interest in history, our time in Washington DC and area, visits to historic places, and just generally my long standing interest in the history of  civil rights, I feel reasonably well versed in civil war history.  However, there is always more to learn.  I don’t get particularly excited about all of the military strategic facts which tend to dominate the histories of these sites.  However, trying to understand the bigger socieDSC_8524-resizetal issues going on and trying to put myself in the place of the people involved in historical events is what I tend to find myself trying to do.  Today, that effort to put ourselves in the shoes of the participants took on a special significance.  Peg’s Great Great Grandfather, David Underhill, and 4 of his brothers all served in the Union army during the Civil War.  They enlisted with regiments from 4 different states: New York, Illinois, Wisconsin, and Michigan.  3 of those 5 brothers were here at Vicksburg.  After the Civil War memorials and road markers were put up all around thDSC_8565-resizee area for each regiment that served here.  We found the plaques listing the individual soldiers for 2 of the 3: Monroe and Arnold.

One of  the brothers, Arnold, was wounded here, died shortly after, and was buried in the National Cemetery here.  We found his grave marker.  If anyone ever thinks genealogy is  not hard work today proved that wrong. The graves here are lined up along tiers of ground in theDSC_8625-resize hills over which the battles were fought.  The one we were looking for was several tiers down from the main road.  After trying to climb down the tiers and barely making it back up we sought another way around and ended up walking almost half a mile to get all the way around the hill to the marker.  DSC_8545-resize

The other insight for me was when we stopped at the large memorial put up by the state of Illinois for all the DSC_8531-resizeIllinois soldiers who served here.  I don’t often think about the fact that I was born in Illinois, but today for some reason that fact struck me.  If I had been born 110 years earlier I would possibly have been one of those soldiers listed here.

I found the state of Illinois’ statement about the war very eloquent. DSC_8536-cropped

“The People of Illinois, free of malice and full of charity, dedicate this monument as a memorial temple to enduring harmony and peace, and as a shrine at which all may again and again renew their consecration to loyal citizenship and gather inspiration to the most unselfish and exalted patriotism.”

Seems to me our current political environment could benefit from a few more people with this attitude.

Also I saw one of those business message boards today with a different piece of advice about attitude which I liked.  Advice I have needed at times in my life and which I think many people would benefit from occasionally:

“A bad attitude is like a flat tire.

 You aren’t going anywhere until you change it.”

Tomorrow we are seeing a a couple of parks on our way south to New Orleans or N’aw-lins.

P.S. – credit for all pictures goes to my lovely wife.

Day 15 – 2015 Transcontinental Trip

By the numbers:

  • 216 miles, from Shreveport LA to Vicksburg MS – 3609 total miles for the trip.
  • highest temp:  95 but our weather app said the “real feel” was 105 and it “really felt” that hot.
  • One new state, Mississippi, but no new license plates.  10 total states for the trip, plus I think we could see Arkansas from our most northern point today.
  • Two new national parks: Poverty Point National Monument and Vicksburg National Military Park  – 20 total park sites for the trip.
  • about 12 – the number of different electronic and/or battery powered devices I worried about when a thunderstorm rolled through and knocked the power out at our hotel for a little while.
  • 535 feet – the highest elevation above sea level in the entire state of Louisiana, near Shreveport where we started this morning.  That’s about the same height at the top of the hill we live on in Seattle.

Poverty Point was the kind of National Park site I really love.  All about an aspect of our nation’s history that I had never heard about before and all very well presented and preserved.  2015-06-30 12.09.41

We tend to learn in school about the early middle eastern cultures, like the Egyptians that we think of as early precursors to our modern culture.  Here in Louisiana, at about the same time as the Egyptian pyramid builders there was a mound building culture that was probably the precursor to many of the later Native American cultures on this continent.  The Mounds they build were as high as 750 feet and huge.  The major mound was in the shape of a bird though you can only tell that from aerial photography today.  Yet these folks planned and build this and very intricate other patterns of mounds on which they both lived and grew crops without any way to see their work from above.  Some Poverty Point moundssophisticated math was involved.  The mound was built by carrying  baskets full of soil from nearby areas up the mounds and building the structure layer by layer.  With baskets of soil weighing about 50 pounds each the estimate is that it took about 15 million baskets full to build just the one mound.

Also, the culture involved major networks of trade up and down the Mississippi, with rocks found in this area known to have originated as far away as Iowa, Illinois and even above the Great Lakes region in Canada.  All of this occurred 2000 years B.C.  I had no idea.  Later generations of this same mound building culture built the Effigy Mounds in Eastern Iowa.

HI vicksburg with canon

You can tell you are in the Civil War History part of the country when your hotel has a canon as a lawn decoration.

We will see more of Vicksburg tomorrow, but one last tidbit related to elevation.  All across Louisiana the entire state seemed very flat.  Suddenly we cross the Mississippi and on the this side of the river the city of Vicksburg is quite hilly.  In fact the cliffs by the river are about 300 feet high, one of the reasons Vicksburg was the last stronghold on the Mississippi for the South in the Civil War.

 

 

 

Day 14 – 2015 Transcontinental Trip

By the numbers:

  • 110 miles, from Natchitoches to Shreveport LA via the Oakley Plantation– 3393 total miles for the trip.
  • highest temp:  97 and over 90% humidity for part of the day.
  • no new states and no new license plates.
  • One new national park:  Cane River Creole National Historic Park – 18 total park sites for the trip.
  • One World War II Museum – The former Eighth Air Force Museum, now the Global Power Museum on Barksdale Air Force Base in Shreveport. – 4th for the trip

Visiting military bases is always an interesting experience.  After living in Washington DC for 2 years we got used to the reality that security at every place is going to be different.  At Lackland AFB we almost didn’t get in.  They usually required advance approval but a phone call to staff at the on-base museum and a 30 minute wait got us in.  Here at Barksdale AFB, the guard met us at the gate asked for our driver’s licenses and then said to follow him in our car as he walked around the corner and pointed to an adjacent parking lot.  He said we could park there, right next to the museum and he would keep our licenses until we were done.  He was quite cheerful and noted that he was also from Seattle and promised us he would take special care of our licenses.  It all worked out.

The Cane River Creole Historic Area around Natchitoch2015-06-29 10.09.55es covers a lot of history but mostly a large number of old plantation sites in this area.  We visited one specific site at the Oakley Plantation.  This part of our country’s history is so sad.  I have a hard time understanding the attraction that some people have to this era.  Being here while so many conversations are going on about he confederate flag is very odd.  The argument I have heard on news shows several times in the past week is that the Confederate flag is not about racism, it is about states’ rights.  But I have to ask when I hear that phrase, “States’ rights to do what?”  The civil war wasn’t fought over states’ rights to build roads, the right to provide schools or hospitals for citizens, or about how a state generally chooses to tax or spend its money.  It was specifically over the “states’ right” to continue a system of support for one group of people to enslave another group of people and treat them as property.  I don’t know if the confederate flag defenders don’t get that or if they don’t want to get that.  The confederate flag is part of history but I have a hard time seeing how it should be the official part of any level of government anywhere in the currrent day United States.

One other item we learned today was that there is a special food item we should look for while in this area:  a Nactchitoches Meat Pie.  The key thing to understand is that these meat pies are like Grape Nuts – They aren’t pies and they aren’t (usually) filled with meat.  They are what we would call an empanada and are usually filled with crayfish.  If we run across one I will report.

The sky was beautifu2015-06-29 12.33.00l today as we just managed to finish our day before a thunder storm rolled through the area.

 

As we got close to our hotel I asked “Do you suppose they have any Texas roadhouses in Louisiana?” The next instance right in front of our htexas roadhouseotel was this sign.  We had a great dinner and I told the waitress I had only one complaint.  Their prime rib is so good I can never bring myself to try anything else on the menu.

Day 13 – 2015 Transcontinental Trip

By the numbers:

  • 251 miles, from outside Houston TX to Natchitoches LA – 3283 total miles for the trip.
  • highest temp:  90 and over 90% humidity for part of the day.
  • elevation: rose to all of about 130 feet above sea level.  Not going to report on this again until after we are out of Florida.
  • 2 states: Texas and Louisisana: up to 9 total states for the trip.
  • New licence plates spotted: none
  • One new national park: Big Thicket National Preserve.
    – 16 total park sites for the trip.

Even though it was hot and humid we were comfortable most of t2015-06-28 12.10.54he day traveling in our air-conditioned car.  This part of the country is so lush and green.  It is really quite beautiful.  We learned at the Big Thicket that for many years the Thicket was home to relatively few people, but that they could live a pretty reasonable life totally in the woods.  The area is full of such a diverse range of plants, trees, birds, insects and animals that resourceful people could live a very self-sustained life just from the resources around them.  In addition to using natural items for food and clothing and shelter, many medicines could be obtained from the Thicket.

It was interesting to be in this area at the same time as we were finishing listening to David McCullough’s excellent book on The Wright Brothers.  Wilbur and Orville were a pretty amazing pair, truly scientifically genius, incredibly industrious, honest, and creative.  They deserve every credit as the inventors of the first heavier than air flying machine.  While they eventually did make a fair amount of money from their invention and work, becoming rich was never their goal.  They lived very consistently with their father’s maxim that “All the money anyone needs is just enough to prevent one from being a burden on others.”

My thought abou2015-06-28 12.08.47t the people living in the Big Thicket was that many of us today might look upon such an existence as a pretty low level hard scrabble way of life, but they definitely lived according to Milton Wrights advice.  Not needing or expecting support or help from anyone else.  Of course we do not live in a world where everyone ascribes to that approach.  At the point at which it was realized that the Big Thicket contained Big Timber and Big Oil, then Big Money stepped in, booted out many of the people living there2015-06-28 12.33.51 and just about destroyed this most amazingly diverse and intricately intertwined and balanced environment.  Luckily before that happened, people with a longer view stepped in and set aside a small part of the original Thicket as a preserve.

The story of the Big Thicket can also be seen as a allegory more generally for other issues in our modern world.  See GracedMoment blog for today.

The be2015-06-28 18.58.52st part of travels to new places, whether it be physical travels to National Parks, or intellectual travels to other places and times like 1903 at Kitty Hawk, is when we can use those new experiences to reflect on ourselves and what we can do to make our work a better place.

 

Tomorrow we will visit a part of the Cane River Creole National Historic Park and another museum in Shreveport LA.

Day 12 – 2015 Transcontinental Trip

By the numbers:

  • 306 miles, all in Texas from San Antonio to Galveston and back to Houston – 3032 total miles for the trip – about one quarter done
  • highest temp:  93 at about 3:00 then 71 at 3:30 and back to 89 by 4:00.  Drove through a major rainstorm in between of the type we never see in Seattle.
  • elevation low point of the day – just few feet about sea level at Galveston
  • still at 8 total states for the trip.
  • Licence plates spotted: New York and New Jersey – only 8 more to have seen all 50.
  • Two new National Park sites:  San Antonio Missions and El Camino Real de Tierra Adentro or the Spanish Colonial Royal Road.
    – 15 total park sites for the trip.
  • One other Museum – The Lone Star Flight Museum in Galveston.

Just a few tidbits for today:

When I find I have sort of overdone the number of museums I have gone to in a short period of time if feels like my brain is full and can’t hang onto anything more.  That was me today at the San Antonio Missions.  It seemed really interesting at the time but after the fact if you ask me what I learned it would be like the parents talking on a Charlie Brown cartoon. “Wa, wa, wa, blah, blah, blah. ”  Hopefully I can reset and get ready for the rest of the trip.

Another event which was the result of loss of concentration was when driving and getting directions from our Android GPS, whom we lovingly refer to as Miss Gypsy.  I wasn’t paying attention to closely when I realized the last thing Gypsy had said contained these 4 words, Left, East, South, and Cross.  My brain’s reaction was to try to figure out which of those I should do:  Go left, go east, go south, or go cross the road.  The answer was that I was supposed to “Turn Left on East South-Cross Road.”

One more brain freeze event was at the hotel when I discovered that in addition to being red-green color blind, (to see if you are take this online test) I am also apparently HCAI (Hotel card arrow impaired).  I could not get the room card to work no matter how I tried (we even had the hotel clerk make us new cards).  I decided to try the card each of the 4 possible ways it could go in the slot only to be told on the last try that there was an arrow on the corner of the card to help guide you on how to insert it in the slot.  When inserted with the arrow first it of course worked correctly.

We were at a Huge truck stop, respite, service station, food, trinket, kind of place today with literally 100’s of cars and trucks all stopped around lunch time.  Over the load speaker someone said, “would the owner of the red truck please return their vehicle.”  My thought was: “Oh yeah, I am sure there’s only going to be one of those here.”

At the museum in Galveston, I pointed in one direction and asked for a suggestion on a viewpoint to see the Gulf of Mexico.  I was informed that the direction I was pointing was not toward the Gulf.  I got directions, which were actually helpful, but when back to the car confirmed my thought that we were actually on an Island at the time and technically any direction was toward the Gulf.

After driving through the above mentioned rainstorm we spent some time at the seawall and beach area in Galveston.  The scene reminding me of my first time ever visiting any ocean beach.  At Christmas 1974 my cousins, Pete and Mark, took me with them to spend the holiday with their parents, my uncle and aunt Al and Edna, at their winter home in Brownsville, Texas.  They taught me how to body surf in the Gulf on Christmas day.  (The locals dressed in their winter coats thought we were crazy, but for us, coming from 20 below temps in Iowa, the water was warm.)  I was later able to use my body surfing “skills” in both the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans.  Thanks cousins for that memory.

Onto a new state tomorrow, Louisiana.